In an age of overconsumption, microtrends and social media pressure, it can be very difficult to make fashion choices that feel right for you, especially if you want to shop green. Clothing production is responsible for an estimated 10% of total global carbon emissions, and the fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water in global markets — just one pair of jeans requires 2,000 gallons of water to make. To make matters worse, businesses have transitioned to making lower-quality clothing than in previous decades in order to keep up with how rapidly trends are changing, exacerbating the waste problem even further. For the consumer who wants to make a difference, making meaningful changes can be overwhelming. The problem just feels so big.
Fortunately, you’re not alone. And a returning fashion designer Jelena Kulic, who has met with The Michigan Daily previously to discuss psychology’s role in fashion, is here to help!
In an interview with The Daily, she discussed her tips for how to shop sustainably without a complete wardrobe revamp. With Paris Fashion Week under her belt, Kulic returns to the high-fashion stage this year at Milan Fashion Week, with new insight on how to navigate the complicated situation fashion is in right now.
You don’t need a Euro summer.
Hard to hear, we know. But it’s important to buy clothes for long-term use, not for a one-time photo op. According to Kulic, the societal pressure to constantly buy new clothes (often perpetuated by social media) is a big factor in why this behavior has skyrocketed in the past decade.
“There is a certain border between being passionate about fashion and serious overconsumption,” Kulic said. “If we’re going to wear a garment once or twice, what’s the point in that? It’s a lot of financial pressure, too. These influencers get clothes sent to them for free, and it’s hard to mentally keep up with the feeling that you don’t have enough clothes, to feel pressure to have this and that.”
To combat this pressure, buy meaningfully, not impulsively. Focus on whether or not a garment has the potential to be in your closet for years, and if it can be used in versatile ways. Avoid synthetic or plastic-based fabrics and opt for more natural, longer-lasting materials like cotton or wool. Use accessories and layers to make your usual clothes feel new again. This can make you feel fresh for picture-worthy events like big trips and group hangs without giving in to the pressure to look completely brand new or perfect. Outfit repeating is normal, folks! Embrace what you already have to accentuate who you already are!
Purchase with intent — and preferably in person.
Online shopping makes it too easy to buy garments rapid-fire, with the instant gratification of same-day delivery being just as psychologically damaging as it is damaging ecologically. Go visit stores in person to properly assess the quality of their clothes. Does the fabric feel comfortable and durable? Is it hemmed well? Most importantly: Does it even fit?
It’s often thought that the only way to shop sustainably is to buy expensive garments, which is hardly realistic for most people. According to Kulic, the store itself doesn’t matter as much as practicing intentionality before you even walk in the door. Buy less, and buy with purpose.
“You can find well-made items even in fast fashion,” Kulic said. “It’s just important to not shop impulsively. Even if you’re someone who doesn’t know about fashion, you can tell if the material is nice, if the stitching is good, if the threading is coming apart. Finance is not the most important thing here, especially if you do your research to find something within your budget.”
It’s also important to buy clothes that are adaptable to your lifestyle. Don’t fill your closet with casual clothing if you primarily work a corporate job, or with clubbing outfits if you don’t go out dancing. Part of developing your own personal style is knowing yourself and what you need day-to-day.
Build a capsule wardrobe.
There’s a land of opportunity in the clothes you already have, as long as you organize them right! Kulic advises building a capsule wardrobe, which involves using different garment combinations to create outfits that feel fresh while keeping your wardrobe contained.
“If someone owns three tops, three bottoms, and three layering pieces (jackets, cardigans, etc.), it can create dozens of different combinations,” Kulic said. “It doesn’t have to be boring. There can be two capsules, one with basics and one with colors, and then those two capsules can mix and match.”
As previously stated, accessories are your friend. A simple necklace or bracelet can accentuate your usual outfits and make it stand out.
Practice basic color theory.
You don’t have to be artistically inclined to know what colors you look good in. Even knowing which colors compliment your organic features, like your skin tone or hair color, can help narrow down your search as you find garments that accentuate your appearance in the best way.
Even just determining your undertone can be a major help. For instance, if you have a warm undertone, meaning your skin has peachy or golden undertones, you may look more flattering in earthy shades or deep reds.
Of course, there’s no surefire rule for what you should wear or not wear, and your personal preference should always come first. But if you’re lost on where to start, knowing your go-to color palette can alleviate some confusion.
Shop vintage.
Aside from the environmental benefits of shopping secondhand, vintage clothes are of higher quality compared to modern clothes and will most certainly last you longer than fast fashion garments. It gives preexisting garments a second life, and gives you a unique piece from brands that might not even be around anymore.
However, Kulic is urging consumers to practice intentionality when thrifting, especially since the trend of thrifting has negatively impacted secondhand shops.
“Just because something is vintage doesn’t mean you should constantly and impulsively buy things,” Kulic said. “You should still think, ‘Is this something I’m going to wear? Can I pair it with things I already have?’ Vintage shopping is still something you risk overconsumption in.”
Acknowledge your mental health.
We can’t take care of the world if we can’t take care of ourselves. If your relationship with fashion is impacting or impacted by your mental health, assess that first before making any more purchases. This can help you buy with intention and know what you’re truly seeking. Are you pressured to buy clothes because you’re self-conscious that you don’t fit in with others? Are you trying to squeeze yourself into trends that you’re not truly into, resulting in a closet that feels more like an algorithm than a reflection of you? These are important things to be aware of before buying anything, but especially clothes and makeup. Kulic warns that the fashion aspect of social media is especially pressing on younger generations, who aren’t secure in their sense of self and face the risk of exclusion.
“They want to fit in, and they’re worried that if they’re not trendy, they won’t be accepted, which is unfortunately kind of true,” Kulic said. “People who don’t really match a pattern usually get excluded from things. It’s important to talk about that aspect as well, that those things don’t define a person. We accept ourselves as we grow up. Individuality is most important.”
Take care of your clothes!
This tip may seem egregiously simple, but it is not practiced enough. Make sure you’re following the washing and drying instructions for your clothes to maximize their lifespan. Learn basic sewing and hemming skills to fix up rips and loose threads. When the clothing is at the end of its life, you can use its fabric to make something new without having to go buy new fabric or clothing!
If that feels like too much of a time-consuming habit to learn, you can always turn to your community for help. Many places have local mending clubs and sustainability workshops that can be huge assets if you have clothes in need of some sprucing up. In Ann Arbor, the University of Michigan’s Zero Waste Organization has hosted mending events in addition to clothing swaps, and, on August 8, the Ann Arbor Public Library is hosting a sustainable fashion workshop where attendees can learn how to upcycle clothing.
Don’t be afraid to have your clothes altered, either. After all, we’re more likely to rewear clothing that we feel great in!
Daily Arts Writer Isabella Casagranda can be reached at ijcasa@umich.edu.
